August 26

That Smarts!

After a few miles of easy climbing this morning I made it up to the south peak of Moose Mountain.  I stopped for a snack at the shelter.  They guys had gotten there just before me, and saw a huge porcupine.  I missed it.  I still really want to see one in the wild.  Next up was the north peak of Moose Mountain, then a long gradual downhill to a road.  The next climb was up to Holts Ledges, where I got some really nice views from the sheer cliffs.  I had been behind the others for most of the day, but I was the first to arrive at the trail crossing at Dorchester Rd.  The others had stopped just before there, at the Trapper John shelter, to take a break and get water.  A sign just north of the road crossing said 'free ice cream'.  Taking the short side trail led me to the residence of Bill Ackerly.  I met Bill, signed in on his hiker register, and he gave me an ice cream bar, while I waited on the others.  I knew once they saw that sign, they'd be up here too.  Bill was really great to meet.  Over 720 hikers had come by his place so far this year, and the season isn't quite over.  This already has exceeded his total from all of last year by over 100.  Bill had just had a birthday as well, a day after mine, turning 85!  When the others arrived, Bill took us out into the back yard where he has a croquet course set up.  He taught us the rules, and we enjoyed a game.  Rainbow Eyes won.  I came in second.  We stayed for over an hour, and could have stayed longer.  There was more miles to be done though, so we filled up our water bottles and headed out.  The hiking all day had been so nice.  Just a simple walk in the woods.  The few climbs we had this morning, and early this afternoon, weren't bad at all.  Two miles after leaving Mr. Ackerly's place, that all changed.  For the next 1.7 miles there was a grueling climb of 1200 feet of elevation gain, up to Lamberts Ridge.  There was a brief section of little bumps, then another huge assent of about 1000 feet over the next mile.  This second tier of the climb up to the top of Smarts Mountain was insanely tough.  At times, the trail went straight up a rock face, so steeply, that there were steel bars nailed into the rock like rungs of a ladder to aid you in the climb.  Drenched in sweat, and exhausted, I made it to the top in time to catch sunset from the fire tower at the summit.  It was chilly. I was wet, and totally worn out.  I didn't want to fool around with my tent, and I decided to sleep in the Fire Wardens Cabin instead.  Not a typical shelter, this one actually had four walls and a door.  With the door and windows closed, it actually stayed fairly warm in there, just from the body heat of the other hikers staying there.  After dark, I cooked my dinner.  I ate the freeze dried meal that I had bought in Hanover.  A Backpacker's Pantry meal of Jamaican Jerk Chicken with Rice and Beans.  Oh.  My.  Goodness.  It was expensive, but it was definitely worth it.  And the perfect treat after a tough day like today.  Over 18 miles, with the climb up Smarts as the finale.  I got up in the night to relieve myself.  Heading outside of the cabin, the air was really chilly.  I could see my breath under the light of my headlamp.  It was a perfectly clear night.  Bright stars above, with the dark silhouettes of evergreens all around. 

Playing a game of croquet at Bill Ackerly's place.